|
Pumori Ascend – More information
The ascent starts at 5,300m. In a
beautiful base camp aside a small lake
(water source, take water filters or
barrels - where you can pack your
equipment- and to clarificate the water
-let sand to drop all night-). From base
camp you have the most wonderful sight
of Mt. Everest you can imagine, just
above is Kalapattar Rock hill at 5545m.
After a 3 hrs walk (loaded) trough an
easy hike terrain you will reach camp 1
or advanced base camp 5700m. To let your
equipment and supply nearby. After this
you will face a 500m. Elevation
difference trough a 40 to 65 degrees
slopes, 100m. Horizontal traverse, steep
and expose to wind narrow ridges, some
5m. Ice wall, one tunnel climb. Pumori
has many rock and mixed climb (not to
need rock pitons but take some in case
for the fixed rope) and spring might be
more rock falling. If you have good
Sherpa, Could be good for spring season.
Camp 2- 6200m. Is located on a narrow
ridge at the end of the section
described before. Expose to wind and far
from avalanches (but people say it has
happened before that avalanches reach
camp 2) the next 400m. Is an ice climb
with 35-65 degrees, more 5m. Ice walls,
many crevasses, and the bigger avalanche
danger from big seracs hanging from the
shoulder 6500m.
The shoulder can be camp 3, but is too
windy and not much gain. From here you
cans see Tibet. After this it is presume
that the rest is a wide ridge that takes
you to a not hidden summit, but like I
told you, You still need rope here
because of many crevasses, Ice walls.
Finally, at 6,850m, there is an enormous
crevasse 200m large, 40m. Deep, 10-20m
wide. Try to walk towards Tibet side
where the crevasses ended just before a
great cliff, but in the other side the
snow two-layer difference for avalanche
danger. You can try Nepal side and you
can reach the beautiful famous Pumori
cliff and crossed the crevasse. After
this the walk to the summit is only walk
& you can summit Pumori 7145m.
Normal route: This is the easiest route
to climb this peak and most of the
expedition climbed this peak so far have
used this route. As you know Pumori is
not easy as like other mountains, there
are technical parts in this route as
well. We suggest you, you have take
climbing Sherpa and who will take to
Summit. We can arrange for you summiter
Sherpas for the Pumori, if you have
required.
You need to have at least 3 camps after
base camp to reach the summit. The base
camp is just above Gorekshep at the
altitude of 5300m. After base camp, you
can set up first camp at the altitude of
5,650m. Around the phase of Pumori.
We set second camp at the ridge after
the phase at the altitude of 6,000m. The
most technical part for this peak is
around camp 1 and 2. We set camp third
at the altitude of 6,480m. Around the
corner after the ridge.
We/you can summit from the third camp to
the top. This route has been used by
former expedition to Pumori in every
year.
South-West ridge: Only few climbers
tried this route, as this is one of the
most difficult routes. This route
follows directly from the top of
Kalapatar and goes straight over the
ridge nearly 75 Degree. As this route
has lots of technical, I recommend you
to use the normal route for the Pumori
and you & your group will reach the Top.
If you need more information please
check Himalayan Journal 1996 or American
Alpine Journal 1997. In this book
written by Climber of Pumori who have
been summit. They Submitted by normal
route.
Type : Camping
Full board, enough trekking crew, tents
Duration : 35
days
Activities :
Best time to go :
Autumn/Spring
Minimum Group Size 2
Maximum Group size: 15
Trek Begin : |
Nepal
Trekking
Highlights
