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Teiji Festival at
Mustang |
Program Code : FT01 |
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Highlights of the Trek |
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The region of Mustang has long, rich and
complex history that makes it one of the
most interesting places in Nepal. The
early history of Lo is shrouded in
legend, myth and mystery, but there are
records of events in Lo as early as the
8h century. It is quite likely that the
Tibetan poet Milarepa, who lived from
1040 to 1123, visited Lo Upper Mustang
was once part of Ngari, a name for far
westen Tibet. Ngari was not a true
political entity, but rather a loose
collection of feudal domains that also
included part of Dolpa. By the
fourteenth century much of Ngari, as
well as most of what today is western
Nepal, was part of the Malla empire
government from Sinja.
It is generally believed that Ame Pal
(A-ma-dpal) was the founder King of Lo
in 1380. The ancestry of the present
Mustang Raja can be traced 25 generation
back to Ame Pal . Ame Pal, or perhaps
his father conquered a large part of the
territory in the upper Kali Gandaki and
was responsible for the development of
the city of Lo Mantahng and many Gompas.
To the west, The Malla empire declined
and become split into numerous petty
hill States. By the18th century, Jumla
had consolidated and reasserted its
power. In an effort to develop itself as
a trading center and to obtain Tibetan
goods, Jumla turned its attention
eastward and in the mid 18th century
assumed control over Lo, from which it
extracted an annual tribute. When he
ascended the throne in 1762, Prithvi
Narayan Shah began to consolidate what
is present day Nepal. At the time of his
death, the kingdom extended from Gorkha
eastward to the borders of Sikkim. His
descendants directed their efforts
westward and by1789, Jumla had been
annexed. The Gorkha armies never
actually entered Lo; they recognized the
rule of the Mustang Raja and, although
Mustang became part of Nepal, the Raja
retained his title and Lo retained a
certain amount of autonomy. Lo
maintained its status as a separarate
principality until 1951. After the Rana
rulers were overthrown in November, 1950
and King Tribhuwan reestablished the
rule of the Shah monarchs, Lo was more
closely consolidated into Nepal. The
Raja was given the honorary rank of
colonel in the Nepal army.
RECENT HISTORY
During the 1960's, after the Dalai Lama
had fled to India and Chinese armies
established control over Tibet, Mustang
was a centre for guerrilla operations
against the Chinese. The soldiers were
the Khampas, Tibet's most fearsome
warriors. They had the backing of the
CIA; some Khampas were secretly trained
in America. At the height of the
fighting there were at least 6,000
Khampas in Mustang and neighboring
border areas. The CIA's support ended in
the early 1970's when the US, under
Kissinger and Nixon, initiated new and
better relations with the Chinese. The
government of Nepal was pressed to take
action against the guerrillas, and
making use of internal divisions within
the Khampas leadership, abit of
treachery, and the Dalai Lama's taped
advice for his countrymen to lay down
their arms, it managed to disband the
resistance without committing to action
the10,000 Royal Nepal Army troops that
it had sent to the area. Though Mustang
was closed, the government allowed a few
researchers into the area. Toni Hagen
included Mustang in his survey of the
entire kingdom of Nepal, and the Italian
scholar Giuseppi Tucci visited in the
autumn of 1952. Professor David
Snellgrove travelled to the region in
1956 but did not visit Lo Manthang.
Longtime Nepal resident Barbara Admas
travelled to Mustang during the autumn
of 1963. The most complete description
of the area is Mustang, the Forbidden
Kingdom written by Michel Peissel who
spent several months in the area in the
spring of 1964. Dr, Harka Bahadur Gurung
also visited and wrote about upper
Mustang in October 1973. A number of
groups legally travelled to upper
Mustang during the 1980's by obtaining
permits to climb Bhrikuti Peak 6364
meters, which is located southeast of Lo
Manthang. Other than a few special royal
guests, the first legal trekkers were
allowed into Mustang in March 1992 upon
payment of USD 500 per week for a
special trekking permit.
RELIGION
The form of Tibetan Buddhism practiced
in Mustang is primarily that of the
Sakyapa sect. This sect was established
at Sakya Monastery in Tibet and dates
from 1073. The Sakyapa sect is more
worldly and practical in outlook and is
less concerned with metaphysics than the
more predominant Nyingmapa and Geluppa
sects. Sakya Monastery is unique for its
horizontal grey, white and yellow
stripes on its red walls, an identifying
feature of Sakyapa structures. Most
chortens and gompas in Lo are painted in
these colors that reflect the
surrounding hills.
THE LAND OF LO
The trek to Lo is through an almost
treeless barren landscape. Strong winds
usually howl across the area in the
afternoon, generally subsiding at night.
Being in the rain shadow of the
Himalaya, Lo has much less rain than the
rest of Nepal, though the skies are
cloudy and there is some rain during the
monsoon. In the winter there is usually
snow, sometimes as much as 30 or40
centimeters on the ground. In Lo itself
the countryside is similar to the
Tibetan plateau with its endless
expanses of yellow and grey rolling
hills eroded by wind. There is more rain
in the lower part of upper Mustang and
the hills tend to be great red fluted
cliffs of tiny round stones cemented
together by mud. Villages are several
hours apart and appear in the distance
almost as mirages; during the summer
season, after the crops are planted,
they are green oases in the desert-like
landscape. House and temple construction
throughout the region uses some stone
but mostly sun-baked bricks of mud.
Astonishing edifices, such as the city
wall and the 4-story palace in Lo
Manthang, are built in this manner. It
is said that there were once large
forests in Lo, but now wood for
construction is hauled ll all the way
from Jomosom or pruned from Pipal trees
that are carefully planted in every
village. The people of upper Mustang
call themselves Lobas,. To be strictly
correct, this word would be spelled "Lopa",
meaning "Lo People", in the same way as
Sherpa, which means "east Nepal," of
Khampa, which means "Kham People". The
people of Lo: probably because of
regional dialect, pronounce the word
with a definite B sound instead of the P
sound that the Sherpas and Khampas use.
I will follow Lo tradition and spell the
word as it is pronounced : Loba : most
anthropological texts, however, disagree
with this.
Duration: Trek 22 day (13 days trekking)
Activities: Trekking, camping,
sightseeing
Grade :
Challenging
These treks will involve some high
altitude activity and the occasional
pass-crossing with walks of up to 9
hours per day and altitudes not
exceeding 6000 meters. Be aware of the
physical and mental needs of this type
of trek. You will need to be fit and the
preparations for the moderate trek apply
here too. Level of fitness is unrelated
to altitude sickness and you cannot be
sure that you will not suffer some mild
symptoms. Slow and steady is the key to
enjoyment.
Type : Camping
Full board, enough trekking crew, tents
Duration : 22
days
Activities :
Best time to go :
May
Departure dates :
As per itinerary below
Minimum group size :
5
Maximum group size :
15
Trek Begin :
by arrangement |
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Program Itinerary (Short) |
Days 01 :
Day 01: May 18, 2004: Arrival at Kathmandu and
transfer to Hotel Marsyangdi (3 Star) |
Days 02 :
May 19, 2004: Preparation for trekking/ Sightseeing
on/at hotel. |
Days 03 :
May 20, 2004: (Kathmandu/Pokhara) Fly to Pokhara and
overnight at Pokhara Mount Resort. |
Days 04 :
May 21, 2004: (Pokhara/Jomosom) Early flight
to Jomosom and trek to Kagbeni. This day is an easy
day hike to Kagbeni along the Kaligandaki river.
Today there is not much of climb up and down mostly
gradual up to Kagbeni. |
Days 05 :
May 22, 2004: (Kagbeni/Chele) The trail
takes you up the east bank of Kali Gandagi that
climbs over many ridges as it heads north. In the
dry season, it is possible to trek the entire route
up the river along the sand and gravel of the
riverbed. |
Days 06 :
May 23, 2004: (Chele/Geling) The climb from
Chele is up a steep spur to a cairn at 3130 meters.
Here there is view of the village of Gyagar across a
huge canyon. A long wall of packed earth encircles
Gyagar and its field. The climb continue, as long,
steep, treeless, waterless slog, along the side of
the spectacular steep canyon to a pass and cairn of
rocks at 3540 meters. Here the trails makes a long
gradual descent to some chorten on ridge, then
descends further on a pleasant trail to samer. Climb
above Samar to a ridge then descend into a large
gorge past chorten painted in red, black,yellow and
white. Along the way the Annapurna himal still
visible far to the south. From here you will descend
to Gelling with its extensive field of barley at 3600
meters. |
Days 07 :
May 24, 2004: (Geling/Charang) From Geling ,
the trail climbs gently through fields up the center
of the valley, passing below the settlement of Tama
Gaun and an imposing chorten. It rejoin the direct
trail and then becomes an unrelenting climb across
the head of the valley to the Nyi La pass at 3950
metres, the highest point reached on the trek.
Cherang is a maze of field, willow trees and house
separated by stone walls at the top of the large
Charang Cho canyon. The huge 5 story white zdong and
red gompa are perched on the edge of the Kali
GAndaki gorge on the east end of the valley. Near
the Gompa is the house of Maya Bista which, if you
have the nerve to get past the ferocious mastiff at
the door, doubles as a hotel and restaurant. The
village has its own electricity system. |
Days 08 :
May 25, 2004: (Charanbg/Lo Manthang) The
trail descends about 100 metres from Charang,
crosses the Charang Chu and climbs steeply up a
rocky trail to a cairn on a ridge opposite the
village at 3580 metres, then enters the Thulung
valley. The trail turns north and climbs gently as
the valley climbs to a large isolated chorten that
marks the boundary between Charang and Lo. Still
climbing , the trail crosses stream, then becomes a
grand wide thoroughfare travelling across a
desert-like landscape painted in every hue of grey
and yellow. Finally from a ridge at 3850 metres,
there is a view of the walled city of Lo. |
Days 09 :
May 26, 2004: (Teiji Festival Starts) Day in
(Lo Manthang.) There are four major temples within
the city wall of Lo Manthang. Each of these
buildings is locked. The villager feel it necessry
to control accesss to the temples: the caretaker and
the key are avaibable only at certain times, and
usually only after a bit negotiation you may be able
to enter in side of the Gompas. |
Days 10 :
May 27, 2004: (Teiji Festival) Day in (Lo
Manthang.) There are lot to do in Lo Manthang beside
visiting the Gompas. Consider renting a horse to
visit some of the other village in the area. |
Days 11 :
May 28, 2004: (Teiji Festival) Day in (Lo
Manthang) This day is either free day or explore
further to north of Lo Manthang depending weather
and physical condition. |
Days 12 :
May 29, 2004: (Teiji Festival ends) Day in
Lomanthang. |
Days 13 :
May 30, 2004: Lo Manthang/Ghemi via Lo Geker.
There in an opportunity to vary return route
visiting two villages that you did not see on the
trek northwards. From Lo Manthang the trail to
Charang heads south; to reach Lo Gekar, turn east
along an indistinct trail that passes the irrigated
fields of the city. The trail to Lo Gekar is not a
main trading route and the area is crisscrossed with
herders trails, so a local guide is particularly
useful here. The trail climbs steadily to a pass
marked by cairn, offering a last glimpse of Lo
Manthang. The trail contours across the head of the
valley and crosses another ridge, then drop into
another large desolate valley. After descending to
the vally floor, the route heads to the right, of
the center of the valley to its head. Cross the
ridge at 4070 metres traverse across the heads of
two more valleys to an indistinct pass. Cross the
pass to some meadows and a stream. The trail then
makes a long rocky descent down ravine to a grassy
valley where Lo Gekar is situated in a group of
large trees along side a stream. Lo Gekar (which
means *pure virtue of Lo*) is also known as Ghar
Gompa.# House Temple#. |
Days 14 :
May 31, 2004: (Ghemi/Samar) From Ghemi,
follow the direct route to the Nyi La, climbing to a
cairn on a ridge and then contouring upwards to meet
the trail from Charang. Continue to the pass and
descend steeply to the Geling valley. Follow the
trail that by passes Geiling to an isolated tea
house and descends gently to the three houses of
Tama Gung. A steep set of switchbacks leads to a
stream, then then trail climbs to a huge painted
chorte. The trail rejoin the Geling trails near the
ridge, just below a chorten and the remainder of the
day is on already travelled trails back to Samar. |
Days 15 :
June 1, 2004: (Samar/Kagbeni) Retrace the
upward trail back to the Kali Gandaki and down
stream to Kagbeni-hopefully before your permit
expires. |
Days 16 :
June 2, 2004: (Kagbeni/Jomosom): You will
reach Jomosom by lunch and rest of the day will be
free. |
Days 17 :
June 3, 2004: (Jomosom/Pokhara): Fly early
in the morning to Pokhara and transfer to hotel. |
Days 18 :
June 4, 2004: Sightseeing of Pokhara and o/n at
hotel. |
Days 19 :
June 5, 2004: Fly to Kathmandu |
Days 20 :
June 6, 2004: Free day/optional sightseeing |
Days 21 :
June 7, 2004: Free day/shopping. |
Days 22 :
June 8, 2004: Departure transfer to the airport for
onward destination. |
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Cost Included :- |
Cost Includes: 4 night hotel accommodation in
Kathmandu on BB plan, Guide, Cook, Kitchen crew,
Tibetan English Spoken Guide, all necessary private
land transportation, food: Breakfast, lunch, snacks
and dinner, accommodation in lodge and tent during
whole trip, yaks for Kailash Kora, Tibet travel
permit, insurance of trek/tour crew.
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Additional Cost :- |
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Bar bills, drinks, personal nature
expenses, monastery entrance and photography charge,
health and travel insurance, emergency evacuation
(like porter charge in landslides or snow blocked),
Any cost of Kathmandu except accommodation on BB
plan and tips. |
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